i know it has been a while since my last post and this is why, a friend of mine came to me a few weeks ago and asked me if I wanted to make with him a blog. this blog will not be exclusively about the life of the local Lebanese and all his troubles but it will tackle a huge amount of subjects including what i have been writing in this blog. with that being said i will have to tell you that this is my last post on this blog, but not my last post ever.
in a matter of days we will launch our new blog, our posts will be more frequent and our will of critique untouched.
you will be able to catch me at the thinking ship
Typical Lebanese
Tuesday, June 26, 2012
Friday, April 13, 2012
Bravo
In the Lebanese society there are certain jokes that are
used on a daily basis by people we know.
These jokes can be verbal as well as gestural. They are the clichés of
our everyday life, we are able to anticipate them but unable to prevent them;
they are engraved in the brain of every Lebanese such as a Pavlov reflex. There
are a lot of these acts, but I will only name a few since I haven’t got all the
time in the world, nor are there enough words in the English dictionary to
attribute an adjective to each of these clichés.
One of my favorite cliché is the joke everyone makes on new
year, supposing it is the 31st of December of a random year, and you
are about to see this person for the last time for today, as he is leaving you,
and holding the elevator door while still making conversation (that is the Lebanese
way), this small grin appears on his face, you anticipate what he is about to
say but it is too late to stop him. And so it comes out; the most used up joke
in the world, the Justin Bieber music to my ears, the new moon movie to my eyes:
“I’ll see you next year “he said, and slam the door in his face I did. At least
this one is only heard one day of the year.
Another of my favorite is when you
are in a men locker room, as you want to change your clothes from casual to sportswear
everyone starts starring at you. You take off you jacket, nothing happens. You take
of your shoes, nothing happens. But at the moment you start unbuttoning your
shirt every man in the locker room starts to whistle, and they are screaming
with these high pitched voices:” lok eh !!! shala7!! “. This is still merciful compared to
what happens when one male takes off his pants, the room turns into a zoo full
of hyenas trying to feed off what little self esteem you have on those chicken
legs you call thighs.
You know how there is a different happy birthday song in
every country. Well in Lebanon one does not simply cut the cake after one happy
birthday song, he has to wait until everyone sings the four traditional
birthday songs, in English, French, Arabic and Lebanese. Even though it is the
same song in different language and each consists ONLY of saying the following words
“happy birthday” in a catching melody. The one happy birthday song that stands
out is the Lebanese version, while the other languages wish you a happy birthday;
the Lebanese version translates the love every Lebanese has for his belly,
since the song consists of saying “we want to eat cake” or in its original Lebanese:”
badna nekol gateau”.
Everyone cuts his hair, and it is a perfectly natural thing
to do. Quite frankly I am afraid to cut my hair knowing that the next day I’ll
have to go to university. There is this other Lebanese clichés that is called a
“sa7sou7”, I find myself incapable of finding its equivalent in English. Anyway,
the “sa7sou7” consists of having everyone you know pad you on the back of the
neck. Some perform a gentle pad out of respect for this “tradition”, as for the
others it is an opportunity to show off their power or their and express
themselves as the alpha male as they use this chance to give you the strongest
smack you will ever receive, really, how often do you get a chance at hitting
someone without suffering any consequences. I have absolutely no idea where,
when and how this began, and I find it ridiculous and insulting (except when I get
to hit others :p ).
Finally my all time favorite, a “funny” joke everyone pulls
ever since I got my cell phone, and every cell phone holder suffers from it. If
you are sitting with some friends and your mom calls you on your phone, as soon
as you pick up these twenty years old friends of yours suddenly loose ten years out of their
maturity and they scream:” put away that cigarette while you are talking to
your mother”, “Nicolas, it’s your turn to take a sniff of cocaine” or they
start making moaning noises as if I was having sex. Supposing I was having sex with
a girl, I would certainly not pick up the phone in the middle of things
especially if it was my mother. And supposing that for some reason I did pick
up the phone, I would certainly not continue my love making while talking to my
mother! That would be sick.
Oh! I almost forgot about the extensive use of the word "bravo"...(with a hyphenation on the "a")
for example:
A: how old are you?
B: 20 years old
A: Walla bravo !
I can't imagine how hard it was... (there should be a sarcasm font in windows)
p.s. Mom if you are reading this; me not picking up the phone doesn’t mean I am having sex.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Cloudy with a chance of rain
While you are living in Lebanon many things can go unnoticed
because they become part of our routine; things that any foreigner would
consider as strange but in our point of you they represent a habit that we got
used to, we are like a lion that has been tamed and taught to live by the rules
that are imposed on him. But the subject
that I will talk about is in contradiction with the name of this blog since it
is not typically Lebanese because it has only manifested itself this year. What
I am going to talk about is the weather that has been cast on us this year. Unable to predict the weather, TV stations
left us no choice but to believe the exact opposite of what they are
broadcasting. Usually the Lebanese reaction to the typical weather is very
predictable:
1-Octobre: in this month, the regular Lebanese hangs his
t-shirts in the closet and starts unpacking his winter kit and his ski equipment
(the Lebanese are very passionate about skiing and start preparing 3 month in
advance). Also in this month he starts
complaining about the lack of early showers that usually open up the rain
season. And based on this keen observation, this Lebanese practices one of the
sports he is the master of which is jumping to conclusions, and postulates that
this year will be dry and that we will have some water troubles in the upcoming
summer.
2-November: at this point we start experiencing some rain,
but the Lebanese that was complaining in October is still not satisfied and
worried that we haven’t reached the yearly amount of water dropped on our
territory (noting that we are still in November, and it is called a YEARLY
amount)
3-December-January-February:
in these three months every Lebanese will regret every complain he said
during the previous months since the sky will open up and empty a bottomless bucket
of water onto Lebanon thus drowning us under several meters of snow. It is at
that moment that the Lebanese will take out their mitts and boots, jump in a
car and go have a snow trip. For the skiers this will be a tremendous opportunity
to show off their class skipping skills and enjoy themselves in faraya or the
cedars or any other ski station. As for the rest of us, we will go to a
mountain, make a barbeque on the snow, build a snow man, and then to practice
another Lebanese tradition which is show off, we will put some snow on the car
just to show to the rest of the world that we did it, we played with some snow,
and now we are going to rub it in your nose, and to push the knife further into
the wound, we will post all of the trip photos on Facebook. This period is also
marked by the incredibly high amount off cold and flu which attack everyone and
leave none at the mercy of their nose blowing, loud coughing and incessant
sneezing symptoms.
4-March: usually the
wrath of the winter is taken down and the flowers start blooming, the Lebanese is
happy to see the sun again and put back the heavy coats in the closet, which he
was wearing for 3 months. But there is always something to complain about in
this country and this time it is the end of the ski season that is turning some
smiles upside down and causing uninterrupted nagging for the whole month.
However this year March was not merciful and he hammered us with some heavy
rain and snow thus preventing us from healing from our flu or cold and leading
us into an infinite punishing circle of nose blowing. But the skiers are incredibly happy since for
the first time they will be able to ski in April while other people might be a
t the beach.
In conclusion we can say that this year the weather is more
schizophrenic than John Nash, changing from sun to rain in a window of 15
minutes. But this is the beauty of Lebanon, the ability of enjoying opposites
in a short term of time, take for example the fact that we can go from the sea
to the snow in the matter of an hour, which is the Lebanese fun fact that we
brag about the most even if no one does it.
Wednesday, March 7, 2012
Table for six
The subject that I will to talk about in this post is the
food in Lebanon. Since eating is the Lebanese national sport I feel I must
treat this subject with the utmost care and attention. There is a variety of
food in Lebanon but the most striking and most popular cuisine are; Lebanese, American,
French, Chinese, Japanese, Italian … here is the most eaten food and the significance
of each:
1-American food: two restaurants describe the fast food in Lebanon;
burger king and McDonald, or as it is referred to in Lebanon; Macdo. These two
multinational enterprises are in a constant battle regarding the number of
peers each one has. There is this group of people who state that McDonald is
better than burger king and the other group says otherwise. But what we can all
agree on is that none of those two restaurants serve us anything that is even
close to meat. But still, they have a large popularity in Lebanon.
2- Burger joints: the
first burger joint that I know of is “let’s burger” near Sassine square, and
that lead to an uncontrolled chain reaction and an untamable spread of this
very profitable business. This restaurant was later followed by: “classic
burger”, “brgr & co”, “the burger bar”… in this category there is also a
division among us Lebanese. There is the group that asserts that “classic
burger” is by far the best burger in Beirut, and there is the other half who
says that “brgr & co” is better than “classic burger” yet the prices of the
last one are more reasonable. The difference between these restaurants and
McDonald and burger king is that these restaurants actually serve us something
that can be considered as eatable, you do not get a wasteburger instead of a
hamburger.
3-French restaurants: the French restaurant that is the most
known is without a doubt “le relais de l’entrecote” at monot street. This restaurant
is synonym to the words valentine’s day and girlfriend’s birthday. It is the
hot spot for a romantic date as well as the most cliché restaurant to which you
can ask a girl out. There are other French restaurants throughout the city but
none of them has the charisma of “le relais de l’entrecote”. This other
restaurant is immerging it goes by the name of “rare” but it didn’t quite make
a reputation for itself.
4-Lebanese restaurants: it is without a doubt the most
spread cuisine in the country and yet I find it surprising how not all the Lebanese
have a weight problem; considering the amount of food we eat when we go to one
of these restaurants it stuns me that not every one of us weighs more than 120
kilos. When one goes to a Lebanese restaurant, it means that he made a full day
commitment, supposing you arrive at one, and then if you eat as fast as you can
you will leave at four o’clock, since the Lebanese are relatively slow eaters
when it comes to their own cuisine then you have just linked lunch and dinner. This
is how a lunch at a Lebanese restaurant usually goes; before you are even
seated you must order the arguileh (chicha), then you take your time asking
everyone on the table what they want as” mezza” and you order it, for the next 2
hours platters of food will be landing on the table, more than the eye can see,
more than the brain can count and more than the Lebanese belly can carry. You would
think that this is the end of it, that what you had is lunch, but it is merely
the appetizers since a sea of grilled chicken and meat is about to take over,
and the irony is that every time everyone gets stuffed of appetizers and leaves
absolutely no room for the main course, leaving the barbeque as feast to the
bees that are roaming around you. You would say that it is over, that you can
leave in peace, but then comes the dessert which is a set of fruits and
suddenly everybody finds their appetite again. The saying:”to have the eyes
bigger than the belly” can be applied to perfection when one goes to a Lebanese
restaurant.
5-Japanese restaurants: in Lebanon Japanese restaurants can
only mean one thing; sushi, and that only means one thing; an opportunity to
show off my chopsticks handling skills. It is undoubtedly the most expensive
cuisine one can find and yet we find a sushi place at the corner of every
street and there we come across the homeless man that sits around the curve
begging us for money, we can ask ourselves what a man that can barely clothe
himself is doing at a sushi restaurant but then we remember that this is Lebanon
and that even beggars have to show off. I still recall a time when we cared
where we ate sushi because it is raw fish and can get us seriously sick, but
now we swallow this food at every place that serves them.
6- Chinese restaurants: there is nothing to specific about Chinese
restaurants in Lebanon, the most known is chopsticks and has nothing that jumps
of the page. But I brought up this topic in order to express my jealousy towards
the American people. In every sitcom everyone always gets Chinese food
delivered to their place and they come in these cardboard boxes that can be assimilated
to a cube or something of that sort. So I raise the question: why don’t we have
these boxes?
7-after party: the after party is what I like to call these
restaurants that stay open 24h per day, the most known of them is “Zaatar w
Zeit”. If you go to the sodeco branch of this restaurant you will come across a
minimum of 5 friends who will be most probably hazy and hungry as hell. The second
after party that is quite popular is “domino’s pizza”. However his delivery
service is much more active than his actual restaurant, he remains the king of
pizza after a long night, since at that time it is the only pizza restaurant
that will be open and you would have drank enough at the bar to be able swallow
it.
If you walk the streets of Beirut, you will see an assemblage
of delivery motorcycles breaking every law in order to fill up the bellies of
the hungry Lebanese. Some people work out their jaw muscles 12 hours a day and
still it is too much to ask from them to stand up once In a while and actually
go to a restaurant.
Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Growing Up
It is custom
to the lebanese elders to perform some visits to their friends or
grandchildren. Ever since I was a kid, both my grandmothers came to our house
on a weekly basis. At first, these visits were the high point of my week since
my grandmothers snuck me some candy which they had in their purse and which my
mom forbid me to eat. The question that I kept asking myself when I was a kid, who
didn’t discover the world, is where did my grandmother get so much candy, and
why did she put it in her purse. Is she like willy wonka? Does she have a
secret chocolate factory hidden in her house along with a bunch of umpa lumpas?
I performed several searches of her house but I didn’t come up with anything,
she was cleverer than I suspected. As I grew up, I started noticing something
that I overlooked before; whenever we offered my grandma some chocolate or some
hard candy she would take it as it is and put it in her purse. At first I thought
that she would eat it later at home but then I came to the conclusion that
represents the sad reality. All the chocolate that I had as a kid, were given to
her by other people, and our chocolate will be offered to some strangers. From now
on whenever she offers me candy I ask her about the latest time she got out of
her house, just to estimate the time this chocolate spent in her purse. Like I said,
as a kid I enjoyed those visits, but as I grew up they started to cause me more
discomfort. Every visit is accompanied by some nagging on my looks; why don’t I
shave, by some nagging on the fact that I do not call her on a daily basis, by
some nagging on her maid,… I have problems of my own which are far from being
solved, I don’t mind listening to her but since it is the same topics of
conversation week in and week out I find these visits a little dull. Another
thing that elder people do is whenever someone who they knew, even for the
shortest period of time dies they wear black for 40 days. While she was young
my grandma was quite popular, and now all her friends are leaving us due to
diseases or other miscellaneous reasons so this means that I haven’t seen my
grandmother wearing anything other than black for a full year. At first I thought
that it was hard for her all her friends dying, but once I asked her why she was
wearing black this time, she told me that the daughter of the man who owns the
mini-market from where they buy their groceries have died. I told her that it
was a little bit extreme but then she told me that what if she crosses this man
and she wasn’t wearing black, it would be awkward. Correct me if I’m wrong but I
do not find it right to mourn on some person who we didn't even know.
There is
something that I do not understand in our parents and grandparents, why is it
that they find it so hard to send a message on the cell phone? You merely have
to follow a set of lousy instructions to get there. We did it; and it is not
like we have a divine technologic power that enables us to see through the
software. There is nothing easier than sending a message but they find it so
hard to understand that “create a new message” means to create a new message. This
is not a generalization but a critique of the minority who suffers from SMS
syndrome.
Here is a
habit that I find hilarious in our current Lebanese society. Whenever someone
is at our house for a visit they stay for an hour or so. The first 30 to 40
minutes are intense with conversation but then the dialogue starts to move
slowly until it reaches a total stop, and that is when the visitors signal that
they will leave. As they get to the elevator door, accompanied by the host of
course or else it would not be honorable, all subjects start flowing and the
most interesting debate takes place all of this and the visitor is holding the
elevator door open completely ignoring the fact that other people might want to
use the lift. This much interesting debate finds no end, until it is ruptured
by someone banging against the elevator door on a different floor screaming and
shouting. It is at that moment that we realize that we were holding the
elevator for about 10 min. We let the elevator go as the visitor is too ashamed
to go in it and face the rage of the person who started claiming his right from
the top of his lungs.
Let us not
forget that in a few years we will be like them, in this judgmental and narrow
minded fashion.
Friday, February 10, 2012
Ach8afieh
It has been
20 years that I live in Achrafieh; the heart of Beirut, and I must say that
there are some ups and downs to it. First of all let us look at the glass as
half full. Achrafieh really has a lot to offer, it is the center of everything
that a young Lebanese might find entertaining, let us start with ABC who offers
a wide range of shopping, movies and restaurants. But if you are in the mood of
clubbing there is Gemmayze who is 15 min away on foot or 40 min by car.
Everything is within walking distance so if you are taking a stroll in Achrafieh
you can spare yourself the trouble of driving. But there is also a downside,
the traffic jams caused by misplaced traffic lights, cabs, … the car horns are
the symphony to which every resident wakes up in the morning or from an
afternoon nap. This is my regular weekday in Achrafieh:
The smell of
gasoline wakes me up
Car horns
honking never stops
I am a
little late, I race to my car
Cause a
little delay may take me far
It’s
pointless I didn’t beat the rush
Now my
patience will be crushed
There are traffic
jams on every street
I know I’ll spend
2 hours in my driver seat
Accusations and
insults are in every mutter
Tension is
so sharp it could slice butter
I somehow
get to college on time
But on the
way back there was a crime
Because my
patience was killed and my money stolen
Throughout the
journey my gas pointer has fallen
Salvation is
near, I can see my place
But the
curse isn’t over there is no parking space
I am doomed
to circle the streets of this city
And hope
that someday, the government will feel pity
And save me
from my misery
That is known
as Achrafieh.
Enough
talking about the city per se, because there is more to Achrafieh than roads,
cars and buildings. There are the inhabitants, Achrafieh is known for being the
nest of snobs, well that is a typical Lebanese stereotype which is built on a
false observation. Achrafieh is divided into many groups, and here are some of
the most known:
1-the
sassinists: they are a bunch of male teenagers who sit around sassine square
(considered as the heart of achrafieh) eating dried pumpkin seeds (bezer). They
stand there in their freshly bought moccasin (from Massimo dutti of course) and
a blazer that matches with their belt and socks near an ATM machine. The reason
they stand near an ATM machine is if a girl shows any interest in them they can
quickly withdraw some money.
2-the Snobs:
they are this army of aishti buying, Louis vuiton carrying and Sandro wearing
girls who lose their identity to a series of brands and become some sort of
walking commercial to this high class store. They do not pick an item by the
fact that it is beautiful or not, but by the name of the brand it carries
ignoring the fact that all our clothing from Armani to Arnani that we buy from
ABC or burj hammoud are manufactured in china. I do not encourage piracy, but I
am saying that it is ridiculous to be wearing clothes which combined can be the
price of a car.
3-the
tantes: they are probably the most popular inhabitants of achrafieh, they are
this series of elderly women who speak French, a bit of Arabic and English
(because it is not chic to speak Arabic) and who spend all their days at beauty
salons or at each other places talking about their maids; “ je ne crois pas que
celle qui travaille chez hugette a fait sa !!”, gossiping about each other “ tu
a su que la fille de wadad a un peiti ami qui n’est pa libanais?!” and
criticizing the new generation “ hal jil Abadan mech zabit! Ils passent tout
leur temps 3al fessebook”.
Finally, one
can say that living in achrafieh is like being stuck in the corner of a room
full of ugly naked women except one who is on the opposite corner and who is
not attracted to you. Here is why I made this comparison: it is noisy as hell,
all you need is around, everyone seems to be preventing you from going where
you want and when you get there you might have some trouble parking.
Friday, January 13, 2012
MpH
This is a subject that I wanted to treat for a while but somehow it kept on getting pushed over. The subject is about an activity that is practiced in every country and yet we find a way to stand out from the crowd since we do it in a totally different way. The action I am referring to is quite simple really, it is driving a car. There are no gray areas in this field, you have to abide by the rules, and obey the laws. You cannot go driving around as you please. Since the Lebanese national sport is bending over the rules, we do not comply and this puts other at risk. The drivers are divided into 2 sections, the ones who do not stop at a traffic light; they are either color blind, or just stupid. And the other half who stops at the traffic light, this section of people has three actions that I find hilarious: first of all, as they are coming, and see that the light has turned to orange they put the pedal to the metal and go full speed trying to avoid the red light and forgetting that the purpose of the orange light is to slow down. The other action that dazzles me is when they are the third or second car in a lane; the second the light turns green they honk for the first person in the lane to move it and do not take in consideration the time needed for the car to kick off. The third one and in my opinion the funniest, when they arrives just as the light turns red, some people get out of their car and go to the nearest shop and charge their phone credit; that is the beauty in the Lebanese driver, he doesn’t have a minute to lose.
Since we have no control of the streets, those illegal actions go unpunished. And sometimes when stuck in traffic and in the absence of a policeman, some of the drivers go out of their cars and start guiding the traffic as they please just for them to get out of this jam and reduce their gas consumption. Every morning as I get in my car there are three things I worry about on the streets; the taxi cars, the motorcycles and the middle aged women with 4x4. For the taxi, the reason is quite simple, the cars are usually old and poorly maintained; missing every blinker light he has, they can stop at any moment and the only signal they give you is waving their hand out of the window, always wondered what they do when it’s raining. If you are stuck behind a taxi in a narrow street, he insists on taking every person on the block to their destination, and you are powerlessly behind him cursing as your brain is trying to figure out a way to get you out of this mess.
The
second thing I dislike is motorcycles, or as I call them; the mosquitoes of the
streets. In Lebanon motorcycles are not considered vehicles (Go figure)
therefore they do not follow the rules the cars abide with, in fact they do not
follow any rule, they don’t have to stop on traffic lights, all the streets work
both ways for them and they do not stick by a lane. They contempt themselves by
slaloming around cars and getting crammed in less comfortable situations
letting the car driver to worry about them and if they mess up and get knocked
down they do not spare you an insult all the way to your mother, sister and
sometimes a whole generation. But the cherry on the top of the cake is the fact
that in the occasion of a collision between a car and a motorcycle, the driver
of the car is always the one to blame and the cause of the accident will be
100% his fault. Finally, I get to the middle aged women in the 4x4, I like to
call them the cleaners (no sexism intended) because in their high cars they do
not stop for anyone, pushing everyone away since they want to pass, since in
their high cars they are immune to accidents, and if they get into one, they
burst out screaming and at you from the top of their lungs because in their
minds they are right and you are wrong, but as soon as it turns out that the
accident was their fault, they say that the system is corrupt.
I’ve been going on and on about the drivers but I forgot to talk about the streets, those dark streets where you are blinded by the lights of the car coming towards you, those dark streets where all the traffic lights are off, those streets that have holes deeper than valleys and wider than seas, holes so many that we have to take major risks to avoid them. Let’s not forget about the crown jewel of the Lebanese engineers a true landmark that is sure to make it into the 7 wonders of the world; it is the bridge in the middle of the highway. But still, cars are a true passion in Lebanon, if you ask someone what is faster than a speeding bullet; they won’t answer by “Superman” but by "Bugatti Veyron Super Sport".
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